Japanese Train Trips (2)

From Hiroshima a Sakura service runs all the way down to Kyushu on the Kyushu Shinkansen. It's an Hikari-equivalent service on the San-yo Shinkansen. These N700-8000 trains, some owned by JR West and some by JR Kyushu but with the same design, have comfy 2+2 seating for reserved seating and capable of a max speed of 300 km/h on San-yo Shinkansen. 

Opposite to the Kagoshima service is the Series 700 Rail Star again, running on its usual Kodama service stopping all stations on the San-yo Shinkansen. Hiroshima is a major stop on the line with trains from Osaka, Tokyo and Kagoshima all calling at the station.

A sunny day at Hiroshima at last. Leaving Hiroshima the train calls at Tokuyama running above conventional lines. It appears to be a coastal port with vast industrial lands and a ferry terminal close to the train station. The Shinkansen line also bypasses a huge chunk of the conventional San-yo main line with long tunnels and therefore has in fact limited scenery along the way.

This train calls at Shin-Yamaguchi which some services skip. The town centre of Yamaguchi sits further inland and the shinkansen station is simply set on the San-yo Main Line, allowing for connections with conventional lines to be easily made.

A bit of train tour. A very grand modern design in between the carriages. This train is owned by JR West as shown.

No one uses payphone nowadays but most of them aren't actually removed. The device is simply disabled and left on the train.

After Kanmon Strait the train enters Kyushu via a cross harbour tunnel. First major city in Kyushu is Kokura on the northern part of the island. JR Kyushu operates the conventional line below while JR West runs the Shinkansen to Hakata as a competing service.

A driver change at Hakata. Hakata serves the city of Fukuoka and is the end of the San-yo Shinkansen. JR West owns the track till Hakataminami (Hakata South) at their maintenance depots. The company also operates a commuter service from a station next to the depot with Shinkansen trains, providing public transport to residents near the depot at commuter fares.

After the depot the train enters a tunnel and comes out at Shin-Tosu on the other end, where we disembark for a conventional line train.

Couple of other conventional line trains at Shin-Tosu. A commuter train links up the Shinkansen Station with the main station in the town of Tosu. Several other limited express trains also pass by allowing for interchange to Shinkansen.

Here's our train- a Ltd Exp Relay-Kamome to Nagasaki. These 885 Series trains used to run all the way to Nagasaki but now only run as a relay service to Takeo-Onsen, where passengers connect to Nishi-Kyushu Shinkansen for Nagasaki. Back when they operated the full length the tilting ability was crucial to achieving high speeds over the curvy tracks near Nagasaki.

A brief train tour. JR Kyushu is well known for its train design and the company takes a lot of effort in branding and decorating each of its trains.

Saga Prefecture- vast flat lands allow for lots of agricultural land use. The line is mostly straight here and is therefore why the prefecture has objected to funding the Shinkansen- building brand new dedicated tracks for 260km/h trains will only bring marginal time benefit to the conventional trains.

Saga- the main city of Saga Prefecture. Construction of the Nishi-Kyushu Shinkansen linking up Nagasaki to the main Shinkansen network only took place at the Nagasaki Prefecture mostly due to objection of this prefecture. Prefectural governments have to fund part of the line's construction costs and once it's completed, will have to take over the maintenance and operation of conventional lines as well. 

Takeo-Onsen, in Saga Prefecture, is now the interchange stop for the Shinkansen. The Kamome (meaning seagull) trains are already waiting on the opposite platform as the conventional Relay Kamome train rolls in. There's only a 10-min break for passengers to transfer onto the standard gauge Shinkansen. The station staff rushed passengers in as many were still taking photos on the platform.

The train that operates this service is an N700S-8000 series train, similar to the brand new N700S (S for Supreme) trains but with only 6 cars and a max. speed of just 260km/h. Passengers are usually booked into the exact same seat on both services so seat finding is relatively straightforward.  The design of the seats is pretty Kyushu style in favour of wooden seats, with a small tray table in the armrest similar to uni lecture theatres. Padding of the seat isn't thick but not really an issue given it's just a 30min ride.

A lot of posters on the train celebrating the opening of this service very recently. Digital screens are also used same as other N700S trains on the Tokaido Shinkansen.

Most of the shinkansen line is tunnels so there isn't much scenery along the way. The line pops above ground near Shin-Omura which this train skips. There's only a bit of scenery near Omura before the train curves back to the tunnel for Isahaya.

This train stops at Isahaya before terminating at Nagasaki. It's again all tunnels built inside hills until the last stretch towards Nagasaki Station. The train's digital display offers clear information to passengers, much better than the old LCD rolling displays.

Tiny bit of cityscape before Nagasaki. The new platforms are built next to the old station and a rebuild of the station precinct is also being done. Back then Nagasaki was the only trading port open for trades with the European, and therefore the city was heavily influenced by European culture.

Photo time of the train. This is also their first time on this line for many on the train. Rail enthusiasts walk around with their massive DSLR cameras while some passengers also took photos using their smartphones. The train conductor also mentioned something about photographs in his on-train announcement triggering a burst of laughter. 

The newly rebuilt station concourse features a giant souvenir shop and several eateries. 

It's still a long walk from the station concourse to the tram stop. The precinct near the tram stop is still being rebuilt.

Nagasaki also suffered the impact of an atomic bomb during WWII. A museum along with a park dedicated to promoting peace was built in the city.

Heading back to the train stations by tram to catch a sightseeing train.

A rather small tram (or streetcar?) network.

Back at Nagasaki Station. Some YC1 hybrid trains now run the local train services between Nagasaki and nearby settlements. After the opening of the Shinkansen local lines will be de-electrified to save cost, and these diesel trains will come in handy. The Shinkansen, while being more expensive than a limited express train, is still on promotional fares and therefore isn't quite as exorbitant. Advanced tickets on bullet trains sold online are still fairly competitive with motorway coach services.

JR Kyushu is quite well known for its sightseeing trains. This time it's a Two Stars 4047, named after the two trains that form this service- Kiha 40 and Kiha 47. Both are old diesel multiple units decades old and its iconic look is often featured on Japanese anime. This sightseeing train runs to Takeo-Onsen where it links up to the Shinkansen, making use of the old conventional tracks for a coastal train ride.

The interior is also nicely refurbished. There's even accessible seating and a lounge for on-board activities. Despite all these amenities it's classed as just a limited express service, accepting JR rail passes.

The YC1 series opposite runs a Regional Rapid Seaside Liner to Sasebo, likely running limited stops. The train runs on the newer Nagasaki Line via Ichinuno as shown in the map below.

The multiple lines that run out of Nagasaki around the hilly terrain. The oldest one (in yellow) is the one which the sightseeing train takes, going around the shoreline. The orange line takes a more direct route and is where the former limited express and rapid trains travel on. The latest addition is the blue Shinkansen line which tunnels through all the hilly terrain.

On the old Nagasaki Line the train climbs out of the city through the curvy sections in the hills.

Quick tour to the train's lounge car. They serve coffee, tea and drinks here.

Onto Omura Bay which the old line runs next to. Omura Bay is a semi-enclosed body of water with only narrow waterways linking it with the open sea. Good views when the weather is good.

Couple of coastal villages and my iced coffee (which is from the coffee machines on board).

A group of Taiwanese tourists boarded at Isahaya. These trains often require booking months in advance for large groups.

The fields and the sea as the train heads up to Omura.

The train runs onto single track sections on the local line. Numerous timetabled stops to obtain clearance but this happens pretty much always on time. Local trains now run on a conductorless driver-only operation mode and these mirrors replace train conductors in safety checks.

More sea views

Then the train rolls into Chiwata, the highlight of the train trip. A coastal station with an old station house is now a photo spot of the train and the sea. A souvenir shop opens in the station but feels more like a local general store.

and the photo spot of a train next to the sea.

Pretty much the same scenery further up the line. Back then Sonogi Station was the most direct way for rail-bus connection to Ureshiro-Onsen but now shinkansen serves that place with a brand new station.

Calling at the dutch-themed theme park of Huis Ten Bosch. Midori Express, another limited express service, also serves the station and the theme park nearby.

Train then turns inland for its final run to Takeo-Onsen where it terminates. A 30-min shinkansen ride took 3 hours on the sightseeing journey.

Takeo-Onsen Station is still really empty around it. Only a convenience store opened inside the station. There are few shops and restaurants around the station either. Spent some time waiting for the Kamome Shinkansen to arrive, where passengers on both the Shinkansen and sightseeing train connect to the Relay-Kamome ltd exp train bound for Hakata.

Relay-Kamome to Shin-Tosu for a Kyushu Shinkansen to Kagoshima. A 800 series all-stops train for Kumamoto arrived first, then the Sakura 565 heading all the way down to Kagoshima.

After Kumamoto the train calls at every single station till Kagoshima. Almost everyone has got off, leaving a nearly empty carriage for the final stop at Kagoshima.

Kagoshima-Chuo Station in the centre of the city. 

The same shinkansen out of Kagoshima to Kumamoto. Kagoshima has really good ekiben meanwhile, being hot and fresh.

As usual Kyushu Shinkansen is also built mostly out of tunnels and with very few actual scenery. The max speed of these trains are 260km/h through the hilly terrain. Shinkansen is truly a time saver compared to the twisty conventional lines.

Kumamoto and the station master Kumamon. Kumamon is the local mascot representing the prefecture and is available for use loyalty-free for local businesses. It's popularity has gone worldwide these days.

A decently large city with an extensive bus and tram network.

In Kumamoto, the bear grows in you. It's everywhere from public signages to government services.

A closer look into the trams: some operate in one car and can be really old. Smaller tramcars run in driver-only wanman (conductorless) mode while longer ones have an onboard conductor. Tramways still follow railway standards despite not being formally a railway.

Ltd Exp Aso on a KiHa 185 series train. The limited express train runs to Aso on the Hohi Line. It's a short diesel set and the reserved seating cars have gotten quite full with many tourists. I've moved to the free seating car at the front despite holding a reservation for a window seat.

Hohi Line meets with the tram line at Shin-Suizenji where this train stops. Most of the line is single tracked but it is still a busy commuter line.

At Tateno Station the line climbs in elevation towards Aso through a zig-zag alignment. The driver switches cabs and the train reverses back and forth slightly. Once in elevation the mountains of Aso start to be visible on the train.

The station of Aso is very small. Next to the train station a bus heads uphill to the tourist info centres and eventually to the crater.

As the bus gains in elevation more snow accumulates on the ground. 

From the visitor centre another bus leads further to the crater. Only part of the crater is open due to volcanic activity.

Scenery at the crater

Snowy visitor centre

A stop visiting another cauldron lake before heading downhill back to the train.

Aso Station- just a typical rural train station with just several trains a day. 

Two platforms as the station serves as a passing loop for the line as well. Rear view mirrors enable driver-only operation.

The local train back is in two section: first a diesel multiple unit to Higo-Ozu. The Hohi Line runs from Kumamoto to Oita but is only electrified to Higo-Ozu within the Kumamoto commuter rail area.

At Higo-Ozu all passengers change onto an electric train running on the electrified section to Kumamoto

Alighting at Shin-Suizenji for Kumamoto tramway to the city. The city has a long but quiet shopping street (Kumamoto isn't a very large city after all).

A lot of train (and kumamon) merchandise at the train station's souvenir shop. And finally ending the day with another Shinkansen back to where I live at Kagoshima.

Mostly a hike at Yufuin on this day. The line to Yufuin is from Kurume on the Kyushu Shinkansen, further away from Kagoshima, and this requires an earlier wake-up time to get there decently early. I took the first shinkansen of the day at 6 am, an 800 series stopping at all stations. The train is well decorated but still has a bit of age after many years of use (they were in operation since 2004).

The sun rises near Kumamoto on the train. It was still pitch black when the train departed at Kagoshima. These 800 series have a LCD display midway in the carriage, a unique feature not seen on other rolling stocks.

At Kurume it's the same limited express train to Yufuin. There's another tourist sightseeing train on the same route as well but the sightseeing train was booked out well in advance.

Great scenery along the way through the heart of Kyushu

Yufuin, a resort town with hot springs. Mt Yufu sits right behind the station which I'm going to hike for the day.

A bus leads to the start of the hiking trail and the rest is bushlands for hikers to explore

Good views of Yufuin from the top

A snowy summit at the top

From the bus it's a quick descent to Oita, a hot spring town. Numerous resorts operate in the town for a hot spring experience.

Ltd Exp Sonic - 883 series back to Hakata

The seats might have looked modern when they were launched but now they just look outdated, representing a style back in the 1980s. While the exterior looked fine, the interior will need some refurbishment. The headrest is designed in this unique shape for better comfort in curvy tracks. 

Not much to see in north Kyushu- just the same usual scenery

Hakata Station and Fukuoka's subway. It's a relatively small system with through running trains from Nishitetsu (private train operator in northern Kyushu) or JR Kyushu.

Also not much to see in Fukuoka- a very quiet city after all

Returning to Kagoshima on a non-reserved car. The free seating cars are in 3+2 configuration rather than the 2+2 with slightly tighter seats. It's just a 1.5hr train ride after all, running limited stops to Kumamoto and then calling at all stations to Kagoshima-Chuo.

Time to head back to Tokyo, a journey that is roughly 1300km long. On Shinkansen trains this takes 7 hours, starting with 4 hours to Osaka and then 2.5-3 to Tokyo.

Back on a Sakura train but instead travelling all the way to Osaka. At the ticket counter, the staff member was very reluctant in making a seat reservation, insisting that the JR Pass already grants access to the non-reserved seating. That staff member probably hasn't seen how much comfortable the reserved seats are. Normally reservations can be made on ticket machines but since I booked the wrong ticket it has to be handled by ticket counter staff, who are sometimes unfamiliar with trains not within their prefecture.

General rule navigating around trains in the developed world: see what staff members say with a pinch of salt and figure out a solution yourself, online or with ticket machines. Human brains are not directly connected to the internet after all and what they know may be outdated.

Cityscapes: Tokuyama, Hiroshima, Fukuyama

Also spotted a Hello Kitty Shinkansen- 500 series at Tokuyama

After Himeji the train goes into the hills, stopping at Shin-Kobe in between tunnels. Suburban Osaka continues after the tunnel all the way to Shin-Osaka where this train terminates.

PAying another visit to Kyoto again, this time heading up on a Special Rapid Service.

Kyoto's station building is always an architectural masterpiece

Revisiting Inari on the Nara Line. Nara Line is seen as a minor rail line and therefore all the older rolling stock are used.

Another route map to read. Nara Line leads down to Nara via Uji, the town well known for its green tea.

Inari Station is always a mess with excessive number of tourists every year. It has been better as Japan has just opened up post covid and its tourism sector is still slowly recovering.

The thousand torii gates- very empty post covid as asia slowly steps out of closed border policies.

Catching a train back to Kyoto for a Shinkansen up to Tokyo.

On a JR Rail Pass only Hikari and Kodama trains are permitted, not Nozomi. Hikari trains are the best way to head up to Tokyo with just several more stops and a marginally longer journey. The Hikari I took is for Tokyo with extra stops at Shizuoka.

Then to my hotel at Ueno, just one station via Ueno-Tokyo Line. The train I took is for Utsunomiya at the far outer suburbs of Tokyo.

Ueno-Tokyo Line: a massive network of through running trains serving Atami to the south and Takasaki/Utsunomiya to the north.

A Chuo Line rapid train to Kawaguchikou on the Fuji Excursion train. It consists of the main train to Kofu with the Fuji Excursion being just the rear 3 cars to Kawaguchikou on the Fujikyu Railway, uncoupling at Otsuki.

Running west on the Chuo Line. The line, while being a relatively straight alignment, has speeds capped to 80 km/h. 

The service is very popular amongst tourists and many failing to secure a seat reservation had to seat on the Kofu bound part of the train, and move back to the Fuji Excursion part before the train uncouples. The 3 car unit runs express up to Fujiyoshida, then reverses for Fujikyu Highland and finally Kawaguchikou.

Quite a lot of train types operate on the Fujikyu Line as well. Mt Fuji as the highest mountain in Japan is seen almost everywhere at this point.

Mandatory extra fares for JR Pass users. Tickets sold at counters have the Fujikyu portion included but for pass users only the JR portion is included, hence requiring an extra fare which is not cheap.

Now the view of Mt Fuji from beneath

From Kawaguchikou a bus to Gotemba then trains back to Tokyo might be a cheaper way out. The bus ride takes a full hour along the local roads.

Gotemba Station, with trains operated by JR Central waiting at the platform.

Not much to see on the line. JR Central takes a stronger focus on its employee's standard procedures and therefore conductors perform their point and call checks more strictly, calling for safety checks at a much louder tone than other JR companies.

Numazu where the Gotemba Line ends. There's an ice cream vending machine on the platform which is quite a rare find. Before the Shinkansen the conventional Tokaido Line is the main corridor between Osaka and Tokyo. Now it's still not hard to find people performing the Tokyo to Osaka by local train challenge, which takes 7 to 11 hours on multiple legs of commuter trains.

A local train to Atami where JR Central's sector ends and JR East starts. Even in year 2023 paper timetable books are fairly popular in Japan and some will have a thick book at home with all the train times across the nation.

Atami is also where Tokaido Shinkansen curves north, requiring the fastest services to slow down below 200km/h. As the border between East and Central JR the IC card for both companies are accepted. Travelling between sectors however requires a paper ticket and IC cards are not accepted.

Atami, meaning hot seas, is also well known for its hot springs. The city is built on a slope with the train station at the top.

Back to Tokyo on the Ltd Exp Odoriko. The train runs from Tokyo to the Ito Peninsula. A large organised tour group visiting Atami has also booked into this train for transport back to Tokyo, perhaps since this is much more time efficient than driving a coach up (which can take 3 hours).

Tokaido Line tracks go along the coastline after Atami with an unobstructed view of the sea. Shortly after is Odawara where suburban Tokyo begins.

Yokohama, Kawasaki and then Tokyo where the train terminates. Opposite this terminating service is a Joban Line rapid train.

A visit to Popondetta in Akihabara to see if they sell something interesting. It's a popular destination for Japanese railway models, however for general railway merch there's plenty of them in JR's own convenience store as well.

Heading up to Omiya in Saitama Prefecture for the railway museum before leaving Japan. All Shinkansen trains heading north stop at Omiya, including this Toki 313 service for Niigata. Many tourists board this train as well for the ski resorts.

From Omiya one stop of the New Shuttle gets to the railway museum. This shuttle is built next to Shinkansen tracks as part of a negotiation deal with the local residents to extend the Shinkansen from Omiya to Tokyo. 

Not a very large system after all. At Railway Museum station there's some arcade games in the station concourse, which one is a train driving themed game where players drive a train in turns.

The main hall with old locomotives and National Railway era trains

to the newer Shinkansen sets

Railway Engineering: Shinkansen's train design and track alignment vs a conventional train. Also how trains operate in various electrifications, including direct and alternating currents.

Trains and their interior

and outdoors: a Max double decker Shinkansen that used to operate on the Niigata Shinkansen line.

and back indoors: Tohoku/Hokkaido Shinkansen trains

Evolution of Japanese railways: From importing the technology from the britains, to the adoption of multiple units, construction of asia's first metro

Tunnelling in Japan: Joetsu Line and Tokaido Line all had to cross mountain ranges. Base tunnels are very common nowadays but back then they present a much greater engineering challenge.

Privatisation of Japanese railways: The National Railways were in huge debts and the way to reform it was to privatise it. It was privatised in sections based on regions and unlike the UK, the privatised companies own the tracks as well.

Old rail maps and the modern day achievement of unifying all Japan's transport IC cards into one payment system.

Another rooftop for trainspotting with Shinkansen, commuter trains and the new transit

Back to Tokyo on a E5 Shinkansen

and lastly a Narita Express train for Narita Airport. JR's airport express is very slow as it goes all the way to Chiba before turning onto Narita Line. Normally no one takes this unless included on the JR pass.

then the journey back home