Mt Twynam

Driving off on a rainy afternoon heavy traffic backs up all along Hume Hwy near Bankstown, as we slowly crawled along commuters towards Liverpool. We spilt tea about ex-girlfriends and spoke about life. I spoke about a book I was reading while stuck in the hospital's dungeon- an anthropology book about Africans in Guangzhou. Written over 10 years ago it was found in a clearance fair- the book is cheap but its knowledge isn't. An isolated enclave houses a significant African population in a monoethnic country- which 10 years later is still mostly the case. As I often mention in my trips it comes down to two models of national identity- value-based identity and ethnicity-based identity, something I found over the years yet literature often mentions similar concepts. Chinese identity comes from a common ethnicity, whereas places like Hong Kong transition over to a more value-based one- one is a Hongkonger not that they're ethnically Hong Kong, but that they agree with Hong Kong values. 

The book sees the establishment of global citizens as key to a value-based identity transition, and only when will Guangzhou truly become an accepting place for its global businessmen. To me, this seemed unlikely as the government would not allow this to happen. Next to me the Chinese international students seemed optimistic about such progression, yet shared the same skepticism. At least something we share is our way of life back home, achieving as much freedom in authoritarian governments. You don't need democracy to live a democratic way of life, while you can also be in a democracy and not live a democratic life. Taking democratic values to daily life, valuing conversations, shared decision-making, keeping authorities in check, and always advocating for people around us. Lifestyle spreads like acts of kindness, building the foundation towards civil liberties. 

This random conversation continues just as we cruise down Lake George over the sunset. Rolling hills made this part my favourite in this state, enjoying a bit of peace as we slowly reached Canberra. Stopping by Canberra Centre for a quick dinner before we leave crowded pubs and gelato places in favour of nature. Cooma, Jindabyne, and reaching Island Bend campground just before midnight.

The next day starts with waking up late, scrambling up mi goreng for breakfast and heading up to Guthega dam trailhead. Uphill the road turns unsealed before reaching the village, where a well-paved walking track to Charlotte's Pass starts. Following the fancy track by a bit we reached a swing bridge crossing the Snowy River, also filling up our bottles with fresh alpine water in one of the side creeks. Across the river the track becomes indistinct over overgrown bushes and there starts our bushbashing. Bushbashing in alpine areas feels more like walking on a trampoline, where the waterlogged sponge-like soil bounces every time we step on it. Swampy landscape surrounded by numerous big snow gums before we rejoined the track. The track leads uphill towards a ridge where Mt Twynam amongst other peaks- Mt Anton, Mt Tate etc all line up. Bypassing a swamp at the base of Mt Twynam we passed a few other day walkers before ascending onto the ridge, summiting a pile of rocks slightly north of the mountain. Great views on the rocks overlooking Mt Tate with its sharp appearance. 

Mt Twynam on this side looked more like a round grassy mountain and we decided not to summit it, saving time from same view different angle. Continuing along the track on the ridge we found a spot with good views of Blue Lake and took our lunch over there. Slightly ahead was a good view of Mt Sentinel, a rocky peak slightly beneath the ridge we're on yet offering a different vibe. With the time being fairly late we gave it a miss, continuing down the track towards where it rejoins Main Range. Friends on the trip wanted to see Mt Kosciuszko but unfortunately it remained obscured in most of the walk. 

Main Range track then heads downhill towards Blue Lake and back towards Charlotte's Pass. Warm day with sun shining was much unlike doing the same section 2 years ago with blasting winds. Little of that memory remained till this day and I couldn't recall most of what's on the blue lake section of the track, other than it being an easy walk in the park. It showcases a very peaceful part of the national park, with endless unspoilt grassy slopes on all sides. Creeks flow in their natural form while campers pick the most isolated bits as their base, truly escaping from civilisation. Alpine wonderland doesn't have distinct rocky peaks like Europe or South America, yet shrines with the unique beauty of all the flowers, birds, and sun shining over the most original landscape. No one is around to disturb you except for your inner self. It's not true wilderness but it does give wilderness vibes. 

Seeing the club trip to New Zealand earlier reminds me of my own NZ trip, where being by yourself on an alpine hill builds a free spirit, free from the inside. Stripped off from mobile reception and an endless supply of commodities in a tent can be suffocating, but that's also when free spirit keeps you happy in a space truly yours and unrestricted by others. My friend told me how I remind him of his religious roommate. That's probably true in how we should be our own priests. Set our own rules, not on rulebooks set by others. 

Hearing my stories in China, the international Chinese student thinks we all have perspectives unique to ourselves. The way to see a country comes in many sides- there's always a glamorous side, a modern developed side, but just as important is a side where average people live, livelihoods and challenges of those who are not as privileged. We love to ask how are you amongst friends, but barely to strangers around us. How do they perceive happiness, or seek solutions to life struggles? Expanding this how are you question onto others, and we get stories, lessons and systems to life. 

A lot of snow gums on the track from Charlotte's Pass to Guthega. The distinct orange colour pattern makes this my favourite tree. Coupled with a great sunset they're the best trees and a scenic spot by itself. Along Snowy River we found a nice spot for an afternoon swim, doing a few laps around a shallow pool. Water of the river is usually icy and there's never been a better day than a hot summer day to dip into cold water. 

Next day we visited the only normal cafe in Cooma for breakfast before returning to Sydney.